The option of ascending Aneto via Ibón del Salterillo is recommended when the Aneto glacier is exposed. In this situation, it is recommended to avoid the route through the Upper Portillón and opt for this one.
Bad conditions on the Upper Portillón route
On the ascent along the classic route of the Superior Portillón, you have to cross large areas of very hard century-old ice (it almost does not allow you to nail the ice ax and crampons). To which we must add the danger of landslides that usually occur in this area during the summer, which make it inadvisable to go through there in these conditions, due to the high risk that this implies of suffering a serious accident, even with experience.
Both the rescue services of the Civil Guard (GREIM), as well as the guides of Benasque, the guards of the refuge of La Renclusa and Montaña Segura, call on all those who are planning to climb Aneto this summer to be prudent and propose a safer alternative route.
Ascend to Aneto through Ibón del Salterillo
The ascent to Aneto via Salterillo is the recommended route at those times of the year (any time between June and September) when the snowfield that usually covers the Aneto glacier has already melted and the glacial ice is exposed. In these circumstances, it is recommended to avoid the ascent through the Upper Portillón and opt for this route, which avoids stepping on the glacier as much as possible and exposing yourself to frequent stone falls.
To ascend to Aneto along this route we will always start from La Besurta, and we will have two options:
1. Route through the Salterillo in the day: from La Besurta, passing through the Plan d’Aigualluts, the Salterillo lake, the lower part of the Coronas pass, the Mahoma Bridge and finally the long-awaited summit.
2. Route through the Salterillo sleeping in the La Renclusa refuge: it is generally the one used by people who want to take the ascent more calmly, or prefer to acclimatize better if they come from coastal areas and are not very used to altitude. From the refuge you will have to ascend to the La Renclusa pass, to descend later until you connect with the previously mentioned route that comes from Aigualluts.
It is important to remember that crampons and an ice ax are also essential on this route, and it is highly recommended to wear a helmet.