The ascent to Aneto via Salterillo is the recommended route at those times of the year (any time between June and September) when the snowfield that usually covers the Aneto glacier has already melted and the ice of the glacier is exposed. In these circumstances, it is recommended to avoid the route through the Upper Portillón and opt for this route, which avoids stepping on the glacier as much as possible and exposing yourself to frequent stone falls.
The north face route through Salterillo starts from La Besurta (1900 m), follow the signs in the direction of Plan d’Aigualluts (GR 11.5), once there you have to go around the entire Plan d’Aigualluts by a series of walkways of wood following the indications towards the refuge of La Renclusa (discarding the path through the bottom of the Valley of Barrancs towards the Salenques pass). You can also access the same route by spending the night in the La Renclusa refuge.
Before reaching the La Renclusa pass, at an altitude of 2,160 m, leave the GR 11.5 in a flatter area with some large stone blocks (1 h 25 min), to turn left to look for a path marked with milestones that It will take us to the landing of Ibón del Salterillo (2460 m, 2 h 25 min). Cross the ravine and along a path enter the moraine and progress along its crest. The itinerary reaches an area of large granite slabs (over 2,750 m, 3 h 25 min) from where it climbs diagonally towards the summit looking for the most logical and simple route.
Leave the Coronas pass at the top right but without reaching it (4 h 45 min), and avoiding stepping on the glacier as much as possible, skirt to the left through an area of loose rock (careful attention). It will be unavoidable to enter the glacier area, but do it as high up as possible, close to the wall that comes from the Coronas pass, already with crampons and an ice ax, to finally reach the top.
Now we will only have to pass the last difficulty before the top: the Mohammed Bridge. A risky step between rocks that requires extreme precautions. After it, you reach the true summit of Aneto (3,404 m, 5 h 30 min).
We will try not to step on the blue ice of the glacier whenever possible, although in the end we will have to do it, depending on the dates more or less. Crossing the glacier requires the use of crampons and ice axes throughout the year and you should not cross it if you do not have this material or you do not have training in its use. If that is your case, you can hire the services of a professional guide for the ascent.
The last difficulty
The Puente de Mahoma is the last obstacle before reaching Aneto. It consists of a narrow and exposed horizontal section where you have to climb onto a rock. The feeling of emptiness in these last meters of the route is important and should not be done if you are afraid of heights. The density of people in the crossing and fatigue can compromise the safety of the crossing. The antecedent is also a great reward.
|PARTIAL TIME||TIME TOTAL||PARTIAL INCLINE||TOTAL INCLINE||PARTIAL DISTANCE||TOTAL DISTANCE|
|La Besurta – Desvío GR 11.5||1 h 25 min||1 h 25 min||+ 300 m||+ 300 m||4,2 km||4,2 km|
|Desvío GR 11.5 – Ibón del Salterillo||1 h||2 h 25 min||+ 310 m||+ 610 m||1,6 km||5,8 km|
|Ibón del Salterillo – Losas de granito (cota 2750 m)||1 h||3 h 25 min||+ 280 m||+ 890 m||1,1 km||6,9 km|
|Losas de granito – Paso bajo Collada Corones||1 h 20 min||4 h 45 min||+ 410 m||+ 1.300m||1,7 km||8,6 km|
|Paso bajo Collada Corones – Pico Aneto||45 min||5 h 30 min||+ 240 m||+ 1.540 m||0,7 km||9,3 km|
|Regreso||3 h 50 min||9 h 20 min||– 1540 m||+/- 1.540 m||9,3 km||18,6 km|
|Guetting there||What to wear|